Before even leaving the car, I knew we had made a mistake.  “We aren’t staying here long enough, “ Me whispered. “Who knew?” He replied. Like so many people drawn to Ranthambore, we had come for the tigers that the national park is famous for, not realizing how amazing Vanyavilas would be.

We had arrived in the late afternoon for two short nights after a considerable drive down from Agra. Hours and hours of traffic. Traffic on dirt roads? Well, yes. Dust, chaos, kidney bruising potholes, animals. Worth it?  Absolutely.

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